What is the Best Chemical Exfoliant? A Guide to Glowing, Smooth Skin

Chemical exfoliants can be your skin’s best friend or your worst nightmare, depending on how you use them. 

Unlike scrubs that rely on friction, chemical exfoliants dissolve dead skin cells and dirt at the surface. When done right, this can mean bright, glowing skin, fewer breakouts, and even softened wrinkles. 

Let’s look at what makes each type of chemical exfoliant shine—so you can find your perfect match and discover what the best chemical exfoliant is for your skin.

Chemical exfoliants break down bonds between dead skin cells to lift and clear them off. Unlike physical exfoliants, which can scratch or irritate, chemicals do the hard work of renewal with less wear and tear on your skin. 

Popular face chemical exfoliator types include AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids) like glycolic acid, BHAs (beta hydroxy acids) like salicylic acid, and enzymes, each with different perks depending on your skin type.

So, what’s the best chemical exfoliant? Well, that depends! Here’s a quick guide on what Dr Tanya recommends for the three main skin types:

Face chemical exfoliators vary not only in their depth of penetration but also in what they bring to the table in terms of benefits. Let’s break down each type and where it shines.

As a deep-penetrating AHA, glycolic acid effectively brightens and smooths. It’s ideal for uneven skin tone, fine lines and dullness. If you’re ready for a glow up, add glycolic acid to your routine. Just keep in mind that this acid is one of the strongest, so start with a lower concentration (around 5%, or even less) if you’re new to chemical exfoliants.

Interested in adding glycolic acid to your skincare ritual? Read about the various benefits of this powerhouse ingredient in our article on Glycolic Acid Benefits.

Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives that stimulate cell turnover. This powerhouse ingredient not only fades wrinkles but also smooths skin texture and reduces pigmentation. These are some of the best chemical exfoliant ingredients around, but of course, they may not suit sensitive skin or skin that’s very new to chemical exfoliation.

If you’re curious about how retinoids compare to over-the-counter retinol, check out our blog on Retinoids vs Retinol.

While not a face chemical exfoliator, niacinamide works wonders alongside an exfoliant. Known for its calming, balancing effects, niacinamide strengthens the skin barrier, making it less likely to react to stronger ingredients that are used in chemical exfoliators. Pairing it with your AHA, BHA or enzyme exfoliant can help reduce redness and irritation.

Discover all the benefits of niacinamide, like how it supports oil regulation and reduces redness, in our Niacinamide Unveiled blog.

Let’s be honest—overdoing it with chemical exfoliants is tempting. We all love a boujee skincare ritual, and it can feel so luxurious to keep using those gorgeous exfoliating serums.

However, exfoliating too frequently can leave your skin red and irritated. Not so cute—and definitely not good for our skin. Here are some best practices:

• A few times a week: Enzymes and lactic acid (in low concentrations) can be gentle enough for application a few times a week.
• Once or twice a week: Stronger acids like glycolic and salicylic are typically best used 1-2 times per week at a maximum (we tend to lean more towards once a week, though, especially at the beginning of your exfoliation journey).
• Once a month (or less): Professional-grade peels, like Cosmelan, are designed for occasional use to avoid skin stress. While not essential, it’s usually best to schedule clinical peels for winter or autumn when UV exposure is generally lower.

[Read Full Article: The Dos and Don'ts of Facial Exfoliation]

Exfoliants can be the star, but they need a good supporting cast to shine. Here’s how to layer your skincare routine for optimal results:

1. Cleanse: Start with a gentle cleanser to remove the day’s (or night’s) dirt and surface impurities. If you’re keen to incorporate a little gentle exfoliation in your cleansing (two in one!) then try Dr Tanya’s Miracle Cream Cleanser. It has 5% glycolic acid alongside nourishing botanicals and vitamins, offering a gentle exfoliation while you cleanse.

1. Exfoliate: Rather than a scrub-and-rinse type product, which can be very harsh on the skin and strip natural oils, we recommend an exfoliating serum here. Dr Tanya’s Night Repair Serum is perfect here as it contains hyaluronic acid, marine collagen and a natural AHA—aka, clinical results with no downtime.

1. Eye cream and/or layered serum: Again, you don’t need to use your eye cream morning and night—but depending on the strength of the active ingredients, you certainly can! If you like to layer your serums, go for gold (just be sure you know which serums layer well with chemical exfoliants).

1. Moisturise: The most important post-exfoliating step is, of course, to moisturise. Seal in hydration and soothe that facial skin with a nourishing cream or gel. 

1. SPF (AM only): Chemical exfoliants make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so always finish with SPF if you’re exfoliating in the morning. Actually, even on the days you’re not exfoliating, always use SPF. Period.

[Read Full Article: Your Go-to Guide to Facial Exfoliation: When, How, and What To Do]

The best chemical exfoliant is all about what works for you. From glycolic acid’s deep penetration to the detoxifying power of BHAs, each has something unique to offer. Try a few to see what your skin loves, and remember: it’s all about balance. With the right exfoliant in your routine, you’re on your way to radiant, healthy skin!

At Dr Tanya Skincare, we believe in using science-backed ingredients that work harmoniously with your skin’s natural balance. Our products feature carefully chosen acids and actives paired with soothing botanicals to help you achieve radiant skin without compromising its health.

If you’re looking for a gentle yet effective solution, check out these must-have doctor formulated products that include these fabulous chemical exfoliant ingredients:

• Radiant Day Cream: includes niacinamide to balance and hydrate after exfoliating. 
• Night Repair Serum: combines AHAs and other actives to renew your skin overnight. 
• Miracle Cream Cleanser: made with 5% glycolic acid for gentle exfoliation while you cleanse.
• Advanced Retinol Serum: perfect for ageing skin, this powerful cosmeceutical formula combines retinol, glycolic and lactic acids with niacinamide and vitamin B5 to stimulate cell turnover and gently exfoliate.